5 Common Mistakes with Floor Tillering to Final Draw Curve (And How to Avoid Them)
As a traditional bowyer based in Missoula, Montana, I’ve spent countless hours crafting self-bows and honing my tillering skills. Floor tillering—a vital step in achieving the perfect draw curve—is where many aspiring bowyers trip up. I’ve been there myself, making mistakes that I wished I could have avoided. In this post, I’ll share the five most common pitfalls when it comes to floor tillering and how you can sidestep them with practical tips and insights from my own experience.
1. Not Understanding the Bow’s Design and Purpose
One of the first mistakes I made was not clearly defining the purpose of the bow before starting the tillering process. Each bow design—whether it’s for target shooting, hunting, or traditional archery—has specific requirements for draw weight and curve.
Before you begin, decide on the bow’s intended use and the desired draw weight. For example, if you’re crafting a bow for hunting, you might want a draw weight of 45-60 pounds, which typically requires a more aggressive curve. On the other hand, for target shooting, a smoother draw might be more favorable.
💡 Ethan Ward's Rule of Thumb: Always sketch out a design and note the target specifications (draw weight and length) before you start shaping your bow. This will guide your tillering process effectively.
2. Overlooking the Initial Floor Tillering Steps
When I first began floor tillering, I was eager to jump right into shaping the limbs without adequately preparing the bow. The initial stages, where I set the basic profile and remove excess wood, are critical. Rushing through these steps can lead to uneven limb thickness and an incorrect bend.
To avoid this, take your time to shape the bow's profile correctly. Use a spokeshave or drawknife to carefully remove material, focusing on maintaining even limb thickness. A good starting point for limb thickness is about 1 inch at the center, tapering to approximately ½ inch at the tips for a longbow.
| Bow Type |
Center Thickness (inches) |
Tip Thickness (inches) |
Length (inches) |
| Longbow |
1 |
½ |
68-72 |
| Recurve |
¾ |
¼ |
60-64 |
| Flatbow |
1 |
½ |
66-70 |
3. Ignoring Limb Symmetry
In my early years, I was so focused on getting one limb just right that I overlooked the importance of symmetry. An uneven bow can lead to inconsistent performance and frustrating shooting experiences.
To ensure symmetry, take frequent measurements during tillering. I usually mark a centerline on the belly of the bow and measure both limbs’ thickness and curvature against it. A caliper is a handy tool for this, allowing you to check the limb dimensions accurately.
💡 Ethan Ward's Rule of Thumb: Measure and adjust often. After every significant removal of wood, recheck your limbs for symmetry and balance.
4. Failing to Account for String Follow
One common oversight I encountered was neglecting to account for string follow—the slight bend in the limbs when the bow is strung. This can affect the overall draw curve and performance of the bow.
When you’re tillering, it’s essential to account for how much the limbs will flex once the bow is strung. A good practice is to periodically string the bow during the tillering process to see how it bends under tension.
I typically do this after I’ve reached about 80% of my target draw weight. If I notice significant string follow, I’ll adjust the tillering accordingly.
5. Skipping the Final Test and Adjustment
Finally, one of the biggest mistakes I made was skipping the final testing and adjustment phase. After putting in all that hard work, it’s tempting to think you’re done, but this phase is critical for ensuring the bow performs as expected.
I recommend taking the time to shoot the bow at various distances and observing its performance. Pay attention to how the arrow flies, the feel of the draw, and any vibrations or inconsistencies.
If you notice issues, don’t hesitate to make adjustments. It’s better to take the time to fine-tune the bow now than to face frustrating issues later on.
How long should I spend on floor tillering?
The time for floor tillering can vary significantly, but I typically spend anywhere from 10 to 20 hours, depending on the bow’s complexity. Patience is essential in this process!
What tools do I need for floor tillering?
Essential tools include a spokeshave, drawknife, caliper, and a tillering tree. A good workbench and proper safety gear are also important.
What should I do if my bow twists during tillering?
If you notice twisting, re-evaluate your limb thickness and symmetry. You may need to remove some wood from the thicker side. Additionally, ensure your tillering tree is set up correctly.
Through my journey as a bowyer, I’ve learned that tillering is both an art and a science. By avoiding these common mistakes, you’ll be better equipped to create a bow that not only looks beautiful but also performs wonderfully. Embrace the process, learn from your experiences, and remember that every bow is unique. Happy tillering!